By John Kirkendall
Meaty pasta dishes just seem to go with fall in Michigan -- like fiery-colored leaves and frost.
Pasta can be an informal dish served around the fireplace with a crusty loaf of Italian bread and plenty of napkins. It can also be an elegant main dish on its own with a leafy salad at the dining table.
The secret: know when to stop cooking the pasta. The Italians got it right when they insisted on al dente pasta. Many have suggested that one opt for the expensive, “artisan” brands of pasta. I think you will have good luck with pasta right off the shelf. Look for pasta with a nice semolina content. And get the size and shape that appeals to you. For this dish, you may decide to choose rotini. That would be a good choice. Remember, once you cook and drain it, no rinsing, put it back in the pot with the sauce and you can essentially cook the pasta again in the sauce to incorporate all the intense flavors. That means if you take the pasta off the fire a little early, you can adjust the texture of the pasta as you reheat it with the sauce. Test, test, test -- this is the key. We are trying to avoid rubbery, flimsy pasta.
Be sure the butter you serve alongside the bread is at room temperature. It is disconcerting to your guests to serve a brick of rock-hard butter alongside the beautiful crusty bread you have carefully provided.
And the Parmesan Cheese topping -- I think it is a good idea to have a cheese grater with a room temperature block of the cheese so your guests will receive the freshest grated cheese possible. This insures it will melt into the dish beautifully. Plenty of napkins all around. If you opt for paper ones, find some very attractive ones. In this “green” age, many are going back to cloth napkins but how “green” those are I am not sure -- after you consider the washing powder, use of water and the rest. Your call.
Pasta Bolognese
2 (28-ounce) cans whole tomatoes with juice
3 tablespoons fruity olive oil (I like Colavita for this.)
6 ounces pancetta
1/4 pound ground pork shoulder
1/4 pound ground beef chuck
1/4 pound ground veal
1 small onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup)
1 carrot, finely chopped (about 1 cup)
1 cup dry red wine (I like to use a Pinot Noir for this and serve it with the pasta as well.)
1 cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 pound small pasta such as rotini
Garnish: Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
In large pan heat some butter and fruity olive oil over medium heat. Cook vegetables until tender. In another pan, brown meats with olive oil and a knob of butter until nicely bronzed. Stir in vegetable mixture. Cook 1 minute more. Add the wine.. Stir. Partially cover and simmer approximately 1 hour, until thickened. Keep an eye on this and add water as necessary to keep from scorching. Remove from the heat.
Meanwhile, prepare the pasta.
Heat a large pot of water until it boils. Add salt. Add the pasta and cook until just short of al dente. Pull a piece out of the water with a slotted spoon. If it is just underdone, it is just right. Drain.
Place sauce over cooked pasta, stirring, and reheat until pasta is al dente. Stir in cream and cheese and heat until thoroughly warmed but do not allow to boil Have cheese and grater handy for your guests to add additional cheese on top.
To serve, place in your largest decorative bowl and top with grated cheese. Provide additional cheese as your guests prefer. (You can fill the bowl with very hot water before you add the pasta. Drain and add pasta. This will help keep the pasta at a nice temperature.) And, if you are entertaining that very, very special someone, chopped fresh truffle to crown it all will impress -- as surely as it will deplete your bank account.
Fresh fruit is a perfect conclusion to this delicious supper.
