It is easy to halve the potato where there is love.
– An Irish proverb
Ireland seems to be the only country where potatoes are synonymous with love. Perhaps because it must have been difficult to see loved ones depart during the famine of 1845 when a fungus infection of the potato crop forced two million people to flee the country.
However, I don’t remember my mother ever making potato curry. Even in boarding school I only ate meat in the potato curry. Much later a new dish of chicken and potato came into existence as more people prospered. But the combination of the most expensive meat with the cheapest vegetable was frowned upon by many.
My curiosity got a jog when decades after the invasion of Afghanistan by the former Soviet Union in the 1970s, Afghan refugees started selling French fries. Young entrepreneurs, after attending school, would set up a wooden stand in the strip malls of Islamabad and place an electric deep fryer on top. A small bucket filled with freshly cut-up, ready-to-fry potatoes was on one side of the fryer and a tray containing a measuring scoop, red chili-pepper, salt, and three different sized paper bags corresponding to price was on the other side. Another big bucket full of water and peeled potatoes stood next to the stand.
The young seller would fry the exact quantity matching how much money a customer wanted to spend, then put freshly fried French fries in a paper bag and sprinkle them with salt and pepper, if the customer desired.
Fritters from roadside kiosks in Belgium and neighboring countries, or chips in England — the country famous for fish and chips — could not beat the crisp outside and soft inside French fries sold by those Afghan teenagers.
It is believed that Incas of the central Andes planted potatoes about 10,000 years ago. They even measured time by boiling purple potatoes. Spanish explorers brought the vegetable to Europe around the 16th Century. It was received with suspicion and some believed it caused leprosy. The vegetable gained popularity after Queen Marie Antoinette of France embellished her hair with potato blossoms.
Potatoes can boast the honor of being planted by President George Washington, though they were first served in the White House during Thomas Jefferson’s presidency.
Currently, the potato is the fourth largest crop after wheat, rice and corn. Its versatile texture lends itself to frying, baking, boiling, mashing and even turning into flour. Due to its blandness it absorbs flavors like no other vegetable; making it popular worldwide.
While Andeans are estimated to have grown about 3,000 types of potatoes, we have to do with limited varieties.
The most prevalent Russet, Idaho and Yukon gold potatoes are great for baking, boiling and mashing because their high starch content imparts color even during frying. Their starch granules swell and yield a fluffy and light texture.
Yellow potatoes can absorb bold flavors. Whole fingerlings cook in little time. A waxy variety, like new potatoes or red ones that go by various names, have creamy, firm and moist flesh. Their low starch content helps retain the shape even after prolonged cooking. They are ideal for roasting and making casseroles.
This Egyptian potato salad would please every palate. It can be served cold or warm, as a snack or a side dish. Herbs and spices can be adjusted to one’s liking. A sprinkle of crushed sumac, sold in Middle Eastern stores, makes it a bit tangy.
Batata Harrah
INGREDIENTS:
3-4 red medium red potatoes
4 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper
1/4 - 1/2 teaspoons roughly ground coriander seeds
Salt and black pepper to taste
1/4 - 1/2 teaspoon crushed cumin seeds (optional)
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander/cilantro
DIRECTIONS:
Boil the potatoes for 15-20 minutes or microwave for 6 minutes. Microwaving will yield drier texture.
Heat the oil. Add red pepper, ground coriander, salt and stir in chopped potatoes. Sautee until evenly golden. Sprinkle the coriander, cover the pan and let it stand over low heat for 5 minutes. Add cumin seeds.
Line a round platter with lettuce or any other green leaves. Put the potatoes in the middle and place firm tomato wedges around the potatoes. Serve warm. 2 Servings.
