Nutritious and ­delicious chickpeas

Majida Rashid

Where would Middle Eastern cuisine(s) be without chickpeas? Thanks to their restaurants for popularizing chickpeas worldwide by serving humus and falafel. Their popularity in Turkey compelled mystical Sufi poet Rumi to write a poem titled: “Chickpea to Cook.” The poem depicts a conversation between the cook and the chickpeas that are being boiled. Interestingly, Rumi compares boiling of chickpeas to that of human life’s trials and tribulations and how it’s the very unwanted that evolves us to become a better human being.

Here are some snippets of the conversation.

“Don’t you try to jump out.

You think I’m torturing you.

I’m giving you flavor, so you can mix with spices and rice and be the lovely vitality of a human being…”

“I was once like you, fresh from the ground. Then I boiled in time, and boiled in the body, two fierce boiling…”

“My animal soul grew powerful. I controlled it with practices, and boiled some more, and boiled once beyond that, and became your teacher.”

The exact origin of chickpeas is not known, but according to some sources chickpeas were found around 7,000 BC in the Levant region where modern day Turkey is located. In Shiraz, Iran, every traditional naan making bakery sold cooked saltless chickpeas. The bread makers are called khabbaz in Farsi and the bakery is known as tanoor where freshly baked naans are sold three times a day.

Iranians use chickpeas for soups, known as ash reshteh. Ashes are elaborate and rich in texture and flavor. Every day a khabbaz soaks a large amount of chickpeas in a huge aluminum pot at least overnight. Then the next evening they boil them with a handful of round dried whole red chilies and some baking powder. Afterwards, they cover the pot and seal the rim of the lid where it touches the pan with water and flour mixture.
The simmering pot is then placed over low heat for the whole night.

The next morning, at the time of selling breakfast naan, the khabbaz opens the pot containing the softest chickpeas I ever ate. The restless greyish steam from the pan cannot wait to escape towards the ceiling. It shows itself off by performing a dance of twists and turns.

While Pakistan is not part of the Middle East, as it is considered here, Pakistani cuisine has quite a few chickpea dishes. Below is my favorite snack made to serve with tea. It’s easy to make, nutritious and delicious!

Tip: Chickpeas absorb plenty of water and swell during soaking so it’s important to put them in a large bowl with a lot of water. Soaking overnight or for 24 hours results in reduced cooking time. It also makes them tender and easier to digest.

Whenever I need to make this dish in a hurry I use canned ones. It’s important to find the brand that has soft chickpeas. Otherwise, the dish will not taste as good.

The following quantity of ingredients are sufficient for about two pounds of canned chickpeas. It’s extremely important to thoroughly wash the canned ones.

Chickpea Chaat


(Serves 4)


Ingredients


1-1/2 to 2 cups dried chickpeas

1-1/2 teaspoons baking soda

3/4 teaspoon salt

6 tablespoons cooking oil

1 medium onion finely chopped

1/2 – 3/4 red dried crushed chilies

1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds

For the decoration


2 medium ripe but firm tomatoes, seeds removed and finely chopped

1/2 cup chopped fresh coriander leaves

Directions


Thoroughly wash the chickpeas.

Add the baking soda and soak the chickpeas overnight in plenty of water.

The next day, boil the chickpeas in the same water.

Cover and lower the heat and simmer for four hours, adding additional boiling water if necessary.

Mix in the salt and further simmer for half an hour.

Heat the oil and sauté the chopped onions for a few minutes.

Mix in the chilies and then cumin seeds.

Drain the chickpeas and add to the onion mixture. Their liquid can be used for soups.

Taste and adjust salt.

Transfer into a serving bowl.

Sprinkle with spring onions, tomatoes and coriander leaves.

Serve hot with tea or coffee.