River Walleye Fishing
Rich Lefler displays a 28.5-inch-long walleye he caught on a jig.
Photo courtesy Jack Payne
By Jack Payne
Walleye and rivers go hand-in-hand. Walleye travel upstream to spawn and then return to the lake they came from. We also have a stable walleye population in the St. Joseph, Kalamazoo, Grand, and Muskegon rivers.
The last Saturday of April is the traditional opener in our area. However, the Detroit and St. Clair River are open all year. If you never fished these two rivers you need to.
Most anglers will vertical jig the big rivers on the east side of the state. Two tips are equally as important when vertical jigging. First, the trolling motor must be pointed into the wind - no exceptions. This is the only way that you will be able to stay vertical and match the speed of the current at the bottom of the river.
Second, please use a stinger hook. We use a size 10 treble hook. You can buy your stinger hooks or make your own. My favorite length is 4 inches. Homemade or store-bought, just make sure that the leader is stiff.
We like stinger hooks that are a tad longer than the plastics being used. The stinger should be built on a stiff line such as fluorocarbon. A stiff line will keep the stinger straight out and much easier for a walleye to suck in.
Drop your jig down, hit bottom, and then lift up 3-6 inches. Anytime that you don’t feel the bottom, set the hook. When lifting up if you feel deadness, set the hook. You always need to know where the bottom is. This means letting more lines out or reeling the line in.
Another tip to remember, keep your rod tip close to the water so that when you set the hook with more authority. Nearly all jig anglers that I know of today use some type of braid. Some use a 6-2, others a 10-4. And we use a hi-vis color. You can see your line move with the hi-vis.
Another great technique that rarely gets a second look on the big rivers is jigging or fishing vertically with a Mack’s Smile Blade and a slow death hook. When using a slow death hook, thread a crawler up to your knot. Leave one inch of crawler daggling and pinch off the balance.
Early in the season, we enjoy fishing close to Lake Michigan. We start at the mouth of the river and work our way upstream a few miles.
We like adding a glow bead before the hook. The glow color blades are what I use. Early season we use the .8, and as things heat up, we move to the 1.1 size Smile Blades.
On our west side of the state's shallower rivers, I would suggest drifting this rig using a three-way rig. If snagged up, rarely will you lose more than the sinker. Crawler rigs work great trolling downstream. Deep holes and deep runs are best and any bridge that you can find. Walleyes are often found just behind a pillar that deflects the current. Also, watch your graph and see if there is a washed-out depression downstream of the bridge.
A bucktail or hair jig is a killer and a forgotten jig. Marabou, hair, or bucktail jigs tipped with a minnow can often be a hands-down best choice in cold frigid rivers in the spring.
The Clouser fly is similar, except it is weightless. We fish this bucktail fly on a wolf river/three-way rigs.
Another forgotten lure that I love fishing is the Whistler Jig heads. On the big deep rivers we vertical jig with the one-ounce models. This jig was just recently discontinued. On the shallower rivers on the west side of the state, we either cast and hop in, or we throw it out 20 feet and lift the jig up and let it flutter down. The propeller blade draws the fish in.
If you concentrate on just a few things your walleye success will go up. Remember that our local rivers hold some fish all year. Stop in at Grand Valley Sport Shop for your outdoor products.
Walleye and rivers go hand-in-hand. Walleye travel upstream to spawn and then return to the lake they came from. We also have a stable walleye population in the St. Joseph, Kalamazoo, Grand, and Muskegon rivers.
The last Saturday of April is the traditional opener in our area. However, the Detroit and St. Clair River are open all year. If you never fished these two rivers you need to.
Most anglers will vertical jig the big rivers on the east side of the state. Two tips are equally as important when vertical jigging. First, the trolling motor must be pointed into the wind - no exceptions. This is the only way that you will be able to stay vertical and match the speed of the current at the bottom of the river.
Second, please use a stinger hook. We use a size 10 treble hook. You can buy your stinger hooks or make your own. My favorite length is 4 inches. Homemade or store-bought, just make sure that the leader is stiff.
We like stinger hooks that are a tad longer than the plastics being used. The stinger should be built on a stiff line such as fluorocarbon. A stiff line will keep the stinger straight out and much easier for a walleye to suck in.
Drop your jig down, hit bottom, and then lift up 3-6 inches. Anytime that you don’t feel the bottom, set the hook. When lifting up if you feel deadness, set the hook. You always need to know where the bottom is. This means letting more lines out or reeling the line in.
Another tip to remember, keep your rod tip close to the water so that when you set the hook with more authority. Nearly all jig anglers that I know of today use some type of braid. Some use a 6-2, others a 10-4. And we use a hi-vis color. You can see your line move with the hi-vis.
Another great technique that rarely gets a second look on the big rivers is jigging or fishing vertically with a Mack’s Smile Blade and a slow death hook. When using a slow death hook, thread a crawler up to your knot. Leave one inch of crawler daggling and pinch off the balance.
Early in the season, we enjoy fishing close to Lake Michigan. We start at the mouth of the river and work our way upstream a few miles.
We like adding a glow bead before the hook. The glow color blades are what I use. Early season we use the .8, and as things heat up, we move to the 1.1 size Smile Blades.
On our west side of the state's shallower rivers, I would suggest drifting this rig using a three-way rig. If snagged up, rarely will you lose more than the sinker. Crawler rigs work great trolling downstream. Deep holes and deep runs are best and any bridge that you can find. Walleyes are often found just behind a pillar that deflects the current. Also, watch your graph and see if there is a washed-out depression downstream of the bridge.
A bucktail or hair jig is a killer and a forgotten jig. Marabou, hair, or bucktail jigs tipped with a minnow can often be a hands-down best choice in cold frigid rivers in the spring.
The Clouser fly is similar, except it is weightless. We fish this bucktail fly on a wolf river/three-way rigs.
Another forgotten lure that I love fishing is the Whistler Jig heads. On the big deep rivers we vertical jig with the one-ounce models. This jig was just recently discontinued. On the shallower rivers on the west side of the state, we either cast and hop in, or we throw it out 20 feet and lift the jig up and let it flutter down. The propeller blade draws the fish in.
If you concentrate on just a few things your walleye success will go up. Remember that our local rivers hold some fish all year. Stop in at Grand Valley Sport Shop for your outdoor products.
Plan Now for Spring Treatment of Hemlock Woolly Adelgid
Hemlock woolly adelgid infestation has been found in parts of Ottawa County. Now is a good time to plan for treatment of this invasive species.
Photo courtesy Michigan Department of Natural Resources
If hemlock trees on your property show signs of hemlock woolly adelgid infestation, now is a good time to plan for spring treatment of this invasive species.
Hemlock woolly adelgid, native to Asia, is known to be present in areas of Ottawa, Allegan, Antrim, Benzie, Leelanau, Manistee, Mason, Muskegon, Oceana, Van Buren and Washtenaw counties in Michigan. These small insects suck sap from hemlock needles and ultimately can cause tree death.
Insecticides are available to control the insect, and in many cases, landowners can apply them easily by carefully following label instructions and application rate guidance. In Michigan, the label is the law. Due to certain restrictions on the use of these insecticides, you may need the services of a licensed pesticide application business.
If one or more trees are infested, make plans to act this year. Without treatment, trees infested with hemlock woolly adelgid are likely to die within four to 10 years. Weakened trees on a home landscape could spell disaster during high winds or storms, and eventually they will have to be removed. Loss of hemlocks in forested areas can reduce shade, winter cover, and food and habitat for birds, fish and mammals.
Products containing either imidacloprid or dinotefuran as the active ingredient and labeled for treatment of hemlock woolly adelgid are effective in combatting the insect.
Imidacloprid moves slowly through trees, taking at least a year to reach the top of a large tree. However, one application will protect the tree for at least four years.
Dinotefuran moves through hemlock trees more quickly, making it ideal for heavily infested trees. Dinotefuran protects trees for one to two years.
No matter which treatment you select, be sure your treatment plan includes all hemlocks on your property over the next few years. If hemlock woolly adelgid is on your site, hemlocks without symptoms are very likely to be infested over time, including trees on neighboring properties. It’s a good idea to discuss treatment plans with neighbors and coordinate efforts when possible.
Application of imidacloprid or dinotefuran is simple enough for many landowners to do themselves. Products containing these chemicals are available at garden supply stores, packaged under various trade names in liquid or granular form. Check the label or ask for assistance in selecting the right product.
Imidacloprid and dinotefuran products available at garden supply stores generally are applied to the soil close to the tree trunk, where they are absorbed through the root system. Plan your application for a time between early April and late October, when the ground has thawed and soil moisture is moderate – not too dry or saturated. The sooner you treat, the more successful your treatment will be.
Follow all label directions, wear appropriate safety gear and determine the right application rate to ensure positive results. To protect the environment, do not allow the product to enter or run off into storm drains, drainage ditches, gutters or surface waters.
Some products have restrictions on the amount that can be applied to an area per year. Be sure to read the label carefully to determine if the amount you need falls within these limits. If not, you may need to adopt a multiyear plan or hire a professional.
More information on do-it-yourself treatment can be found in the Michigan State University Extension bulletin which has guidelines for homeowner treatments.
If your hemlock trees are within 75 feet of a body of water or in areas with a high water table, or if flowering plants or shrubs are growing around the hemlocks you wish to protect, a trunk injection or bark treatment may be necessary to avoid affecting the environment, groundwater or other insects. Professional applicators can provide these types of treatments.
A county-by-county list of businesses holding pesticide application licenses can be found on the Michigan Department of Agriculture and Rural Development’s website, Michigan.gov/MDARD. For lawn or landscape trees, look for a professional licensed in the ornamental category (3B); for forest trees, choose the forestry category (2).
If you suspect trees on your property have hemlock woolly adelgid, report it using the Midwest Invasive Species Information Network at MISIN.MSU.edu. You can report from the field using the MISIN smartphone app, which will log the location and allow you to upload photos of the suspected signs of the insect.
You also can take pictures, note the tree’s location and email the information to MDARD at MDA-Info@Michigan.gov or report by calling (800) 292-3939. Someone will respond to let you know if hemlock woolly adelgid is present or not.
Please do not clip infested branch samples and transport or mail them. This could accidentally spread the insect to new areas.
For more information on identifying and managing hemlock woolly adelgid, visit Michigan. gov/HWA.
Michigan's Invasive Species Program is cooperatively implemented by the Michigan departments of Agriculture and Rural Development; Environment, Great Lakes, and Energy; and Natural Resources.
Hemlock woolly adelgid, native to Asia, is known to be present in areas of Ottawa, Allegan, Antrim, Benzie, Leelanau, Manistee, Mason, Muskegon, Oceana, Van Buren and Washtenaw counties in Michigan. These small insects suck sap from hemlock needles and ultimately can cause tree death.
Insecticides are available to control the insect, and in many cases, landowners can apply them easily by carefully following label instructions and application rate guidance. In Michigan, the label is the law. Due to certain restrictions on the use of these insecticides, you may need the services of a licensed pesticide application business.
If one or more trees are infested, make plans to act this year. Without treatment, trees infested with hemlock woolly adelgid are likely to die within four to 10 years. Weakened trees on a home landscape could spell disaster during high winds or storms, and eventually they will have to be removed. Loss of hemlocks in forested areas can reduce shade, winter cover, and food and habitat for birds, fish and mammals.
Products containing either imidacloprid or dinotefuran as the active ingredient and labeled for treatment of hemlock woolly adelgid are effective in combatting the insect.
Imidacloprid moves slowly through trees, taking at least a year to reach the top of a large tree. However, one application will protect the tree for at least four years.
Dinotefuran moves through hemlock trees more quickly, making it ideal for heavily infested trees. Dinotefuran protects trees for one to two years.
No matter which treatment you select, be sure your treatment plan includes all hemlocks on your property over the next few years. If hemlock woolly adelgid is on your site, hemlocks without symptoms are very likely to be infested over time, including trees on neighboring properties. It’s a good idea to discuss treatment plans with neighbors and coordinate efforts when possible.
Application of imidacloprid or dinotefuran is simple enough for many landowners to do themselves. Products containing these chemicals are available at garden supply stores, packaged under various trade names in liquid or granular form. Check the label or ask for assistance in selecting the right product.
Imidacloprid and dinotefuran products available at garden supply stores generally are applied to the soil close to the tree trunk, where they are absorbed through the root system. Plan your application for a time between early April and late October, when the ground has thawed and soil moisture is moderate – not too dry or saturated. The sooner you treat, the more successful your treatment will be.
Follow all label directions, wear appropriate safety gear and determine the right application rate to ensure positive results. To protect the environment, do not allow the product to enter or run off into storm drains, drainage ditches, gutters or surface waters.
Some products have restrictions on the amount that can be applied to an area per year. Be sure to read the label carefully to determine if the amount you need falls within these limits. If not, you may need to adopt a multiyear plan or hire a professional.
More information on do-it-yourself treatment can be found in the Michigan State University Extension bulletin which has guidelines for homeowner treatments.
If your hemlock trees are within 75 feet of a body of water or in areas with a high water table, or if flowering plants or shrubs are growing around the hemlocks you wish to protect, a trunk injection or bark treatment may be necessary to avoid affecting the environment, groundwater or other insects. Professional applicators can provide these types of treatments.
A county-by-county list of businesses holding pesticide application licenses can be found on the Michigan Department of Agriculture and Rural Development’s website, Michigan.gov/MDARD. For lawn or landscape trees, look for a professional licensed in the ornamental category (3B); for forest trees, choose the forestry category (2).
If you suspect trees on your property have hemlock woolly adelgid, report it using the Midwest Invasive Species Information Network at MISIN.MSU.edu. You can report from the field using the MISIN smartphone app, which will log the location and allow you to upload photos of the suspected signs of the insect.
You also can take pictures, note the tree’s location and email the information to MDARD at MDA-Info@Michigan.gov or report by calling (800) 292-3939. Someone will respond to let you know if hemlock woolly adelgid is present or not.
Please do not clip infested branch samples and transport or mail them. This could accidentally spread the insect to new areas.
For more information on identifying and managing hemlock woolly adelgid, visit Michigan. gov/HWA.
Michigan's Invasive Species Program is cooperatively implemented by the Michigan departments of Agriculture and Rural Development; Environment, Great Lakes, and Energy; and Natural Resources.
DNR Offers Hunter Safety Classes
If you plan to take part in Michigan’s spring turkey season (April 19 through June 7) and you still need to take a hunter safety class, sign up soon. These classes are commonly offered ahead of the spring turkey season or in the fall before the start of firearm deer season.
To purchase a hunting license in Michigan, anyone born on or after Jan. 1, 1960, is required to successfully complete an approved hunter safety education course.
“We don’t want to see people wait until the week before they want to hunt to try locating a hunter safety class, at which point classes often are full,” said Lt. Tom Wanless, recreational safety, education and enforcement supervisor with the Michigan Department of Natural Resources.
There are four options for completing hunter safety education in Michigan, all of which require at least four hours of in-person instruction:
• Traditional classroom-based course.
• Online course followed by an in-person field day.
• Interactive online course (with animations and videos that put students in virtual real-life scenarios) followed by an in-person field day.
• Take-home study course followed by an in-person field day.
Wanless said the DNR-managed hunter safety education program helps the next generation of hunters learn how to safely, responsibly enjoy hunting and understand the importance of wildlife management and conservation.
“These classes build confidence and teach lifelong skills, such as firearm safety, wildlife and habitat management, and how to use a map and compass, to an average of 15,000 students every year,” Wanless said.
Once you successfully complete the hunter education course and receive your certificate, it is valid for life.
Learn more about the program and register for a class at Michigan.gov/HunterEducation.
To purchase a hunting license in Michigan, anyone born on or after Jan. 1, 1960, is required to successfully complete an approved hunter safety education course.
“We don’t want to see people wait until the week before they want to hunt to try locating a hunter safety class, at which point classes often are full,” said Lt. Tom Wanless, recreational safety, education and enforcement supervisor with the Michigan Department of Natural Resources.
There are four options for completing hunter safety education in Michigan, all of which require at least four hours of in-person instruction:
• Traditional classroom-based course.
• Online course followed by an in-person field day.
• Interactive online course (with animations and videos that put students in virtual real-life scenarios) followed by an in-person field day.
• Take-home study course followed by an in-person field day.
Wanless said the DNR-managed hunter safety education program helps the next generation of hunters learn how to safely, responsibly enjoy hunting and understand the importance of wildlife management and conservation.
“These classes build confidence and teach lifelong skills, such as firearm safety, wildlife and habitat management, and how to use a map and compass, to an average of 15,000 students every year,” Wanless said.
Once you successfully complete the hunter education course and receive your certificate, it is valid for life.
Learn more about the program and register for a class at Michigan.gov/HunterEducation.
Outdoor Truths
By Gary Miller
I don’t remember being so aggravated as I was the other day.
There I was, sitting with a friend, sulking about a lost opportunity to pull the trigger on a tom turkey. The night before, we had seen a gobbler and a hen move into a certain part of the woods. We surmised they would certainly roost there, so our plans were to be their wakeup call the next morning.
The next day, we were in place as the sun began to rise. The woods all around us was being filled with a chorus of gobbles. None of them, however, were coming from this particular bird that we were set up on. We stayed and waited.
We continued to wait as we called softly to let him know we were around. Still no response. The other gobblers wanted us to come to them but we remained steadfast until we determined that somehow this bird had eluded us.
Our plan now was to try to get on one of the other gobblers that had been calling, but we had waited too long. They had already found other hens. So there we were, empty-handed, frustrated, and sulking in the price of a bad decision.
While sitting on the side of that hill I pondered on some lesson from what had just happened. It seemed that very quickly my mind went to this subject of decisions.
You see, every decision has at least two components; sacrifice and risk. Some decisions – the easiest ones, come with very little sacrifice and very little risk. These are the ones that most of us make every day. They keep us in our comfort zone and that is really where we all like to live.
I ask myself as I thought about what had just transpired that morning, if my decision to stay put was based on my unwillingness to sacrifice to climb a difficult hill or if it was based on the fear that I would run into the bird that I was trying to get close to. Was I afraid of that risk?
I’m not sure, but I was reminded of this; the greatest successes and results will always come from the greatest sacrifices and risks. In investments, the greatest return on one’s money also comes with the greatest possibility of losing one’s money. So, as you can imagine, most people prefer to remain in the safe confines of the local FDIC-insured bank.
In turkey hunting, most people chose to stay on level ground instead of climbing a difficult hill. They prefer to stay several hundred yards from a gobbler’s roost instead of moving close and risking being seen. The truth is, the one closest is more likely to garner the kill.
My friend, remember that while most of your decisions in life will take very little sacrifice and risk, if you are truly going to enjoy the most thrilling victories, you will have to put something on the line. Your risk may not always pay off, but at least you won’t be sitting on the side of a hill somewhere, wondering what might have been if you had only moved.
—————
Gary Miller has written Outdoor Truths articles for 21 years. He has also written five books which include compilations of his articles and a father/son devotional. He also speaks at wild game dinners and men’s events for churches and associations. Write to him at gary@outdoortruths.org.
I don’t remember being so aggravated as I was the other day.
There I was, sitting with a friend, sulking about a lost opportunity to pull the trigger on a tom turkey. The night before, we had seen a gobbler and a hen move into a certain part of the woods. We surmised they would certainly roost there, so our plans were to be their wakeup call the next morning.
The next day, we were in place as the sun began to rise. The woods all around us was being filled with a chorus of gobbles. None of them, however, were coming from this particular bird that we were set up on. We stayed and waited.
We continued to wait as we called softly to let him know we were around. Still no response. The other gobblers wanted us to come to them but we remained steadfast until we determined that somehow this bird had eluded us.
Our plan now was to try to get on one of the other gobblers that had been calling, but we had waited too long. They had already found other hens. So there we were, empty-handed, frustrated, and sulking in the price of a bad decision.
While sitting on the side of that hill I pondered on some lesson from what had just happened. It seemed that very quickly my mind went to this subject of decisions.
You see, every decision has at least two components; sacrifice and risk. Some decisions – the easiest ones, come with very little sacrifice and very little risk. These are the ones that most of us make every day. They keep us in our comfort zone and that is really where we all like to live.
I ask myself as I thought about what had just transpired that morning, if my decision to stay put was based on my unwillingness to sacrifice to climb a difficult hill or if it was based on the fear that I would run into the bird that I was trying to get close to. Was I afraid of that risk?
I’m not sure, but I was reminded of this; the greatest successes and results will always come from the greatest sacrifices and risks. In investments, the greatest return on one’s money also comes with the greatest possibility of losing one’s money. So, as you can imagine, most people prefer to remain in the safe confines of the local FDIC-insured bank.
In turkey hunting, most people chose to stay on level ground instead of climbing a difficult hill. They prefer to stay several hundred yards from a gobbler’s roost instead of moving close and risking being seen. The truth is, the one closest is more likely to garner the kill.
My friend, remember that while most of your decisions in life will take very little sacrifice and risk, if you are truly going to enjoy the most thrilling victories, you will have to put something on the line. Your risk may not always pay off, but at least you won’t be sitting on the side of a hill somewhere, wondering what might have been if you had only moved.
—————
Gary Miller has written Outdoor Truths articles for 21 years. He has also written five books which include compilations of his articles and a father/son devotional. He also speaks at wild game dinners and men’s events for churches and associations. Write to him at gary@outdoortruths.org.
Grow, Harvest, Enjoy All Parts of Cilantro
Cilantro is a favorite ingredient in guacamole, tacos, rice dishes, and salsa, but as summer temperatures rise, cilantro quickly goes to seed.
Photo courtesy of MelindaMyers.com
By Melinda Myers
Growing cilantro is easy, but this cool-weather herb quickly flowers and goes to seed as temperatures rise. This can be frustrating as some vegetables typically combined with cilantro, like tomatoes and peppers, ripen during the warmer summer months. Try making multiple plantings, using all parts of the plant, or growing more heat-tolerant options to extend your enjoyment.
Sow seeds every three to four weeks throughout the summer for continual harvests if your summers are relatively cool. Gardeners in hotter regions will have the best results growing cilantro in spring, fall, and even winter when temperatures are cooler. Grow cilantro in full sun or light shade as temperatures climb and in moist, well-drained soil for best results.
Mulching the soil with leaves or evergreen needles helps keep the roots cool and moist, helping delay flowering. Avoid overwatering, which can lead to root rot.
Cilantro grows quickly, and its leaves can be harvested when the plants are four to six inches tall. Harvest as needed and as much as a third of the plant at one time to allow it to keep producing. Or cut the whole plant back to an inch above the ground and wait for it to regrow. Cilantro should be harvested often to encourage new growth and before the plants flower for the best flavor.
Store freshly cut leaves like a bouquet in a glass of fresh water. Place in the refrigerator to use for the upcoming week. Hang leaves upside down to dry or freeze. Just wash the leaves, pat dry, and place them in a freezer bag or air-tight container in the freezer. Or chop up the rinsed cilantro into smaller pieces, place in ice cube trays, and top with a splash of water before placing in the freezer.
Don’t be surprised as temperatures rise, the plant will flower and set seed. Look at this as an opportunity to utilize the other parts of this plant. Enjoy the beauty and flavor of the lacy white flowers that attract beneficial insects to the garden.
Seeds will appear after the flowers fade. Wait for the plants and seeds to turn brown if you plan to harvest and use the seeds, known as coriander. Cut off the seed heads, place them in a paper bag, and allow the seeds to drop to the bottom. The seeds are ground and used in breads, cakes, pickling spices, and Asian food. Store in sealed containers until ready to use.
You can also let the plant self-seed. Allow the seeds to drop to the ground in the garden and grow new cilantro plants to harvest and enjoy. Cilantro seeds sprout readily when soil temperatures are 55 to 68 degrees Fahrenheit and the plants can withstand a light frost.
Don’t forget to harvest the roots. These have a strong peppery, citrus spicy flavor, so are often used for seasoning Thai and Vietnamese food. They taste best when harvested in the fall.
Extend the season by growing more heat-tolerant varieties that are slower to develop flowers and seeds like Slo-Bolt, Longstanding, Cruiser, and Santo. Papalo, also known as summer cilantro, has a similar but stronger flavor than cilantro with a hint of citrus and mint and thrives in hot weather. You will only need one or two plants since this annual grows up to five feet tall and several feet wide. Harvest young leaves for the best flavor and use only one-half or one-third the amount of cilantro called for in recipes.
Extend your cilantro harvest and enjoyment by utilizing every part of the plant. Adjust your cilantro growing techniques and plant selection to help beat the heat.
—————
Melinda Myers has written over 20 gardening books, including Midwest Gardener’s Handbook, Revised Edition, and Small Space Gardening. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” instant video and DVD series and the nationally syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine. Myers’ website is www.MelindaMyers.com.
Growing cilantro is easy, but this cool-weather herb quickly flowers and goes to seed as temperatures rise. This can be frustrating as some vegetables typically combined with cilantro, like tomatoes and peppers, ripen during the warmer summer months. Try making multiple plantings, using all parts of the plant, or growing more heat-tolerant options to extend your enjoyment.
Sow seeds every three to four weeks throughout the summer for continual harvests if your summers are relatively cool. Gardeners in hotter regions will have the best results growing cilantro in spring, fall, and even winter when temperatures are cooler. Grow cilantro in full sun or light shade as temperatures climb and in moist, well-drained soil for best results.
Mulching the soil with leaves or evergreen needles helps keep the roots cool and moist, helping delay flowering. Avoid overwatering, which can lead to root rot.
Cilantro grows quickly, and its leaves can be harvested when the plants are four to six inches tall. Harvest as needed and as much as a third of the plant at one time to allow it to keep producing. Or cut the whole plant back to an inch above the ground and wait for it to regrow. Cilantro should be harvested often to encourage new growth and before the plants flower for the best flavor.
Store freshly cut leaves like a bouquet in a glass of fresh water. Place in the refrigerator to use for the upcoming week. Hang leaves upside down to dry or freeze. Just wash the leaves, pat dry, and place them in a freezer bag or air-tight container in the freezer. Or chop up the rinsed cilantro into smaller pieces, place in ice cube trays, and top with a splash of water before placing in the freezer.
Don’t be surprised as temperatures rise, the plant will flower and set seed. Look at this as an opportunity to utilize the other parts of this plant. Enjoy the beauty and flavor of the lacy white flowers that attract beneficial insects to the garden.
Seeds will appear after the flowers fade. Wait for the plants and seeds to turn brown if you plan to harvest and use the seeds, known as coriander. Cut off the seed heads, place them in a paper bag, and allow the seeds to drop to the bottom. The seeds are ground and used in breads, cakes, pickling spices, and Asian food. Store in sealed containers until ready to use.
You can also let the plant self-seed. Allow the seeds to drop to the ground in the garden and grow new cilantro plants to harvest and enjoy. Cilantro seeds sprout readily when soil temperatures are 55 to 68 degrees Fahrenheit and the plants can withstand a light frost.
Don’t forget to harvest the roots. These have a strong peppery, citrus spicy flavor, so are often used for seasoning Thai and Vietnamese food. They taste best when harvested in the fall.
Extend the season by growing more heat-tolerant varieties that are slower to develop flowers and seeds like Slo-Bolt, Longstanding, Cruiser, and Santo. Papalo, also known as summer cilantro, has a similar but stronger flavor than cilantro with a hint of citrus and mint and thrives in hot weather. You will only need one or two plants since this annual grows up to five feet tall and several feet wide. Harvest young leaves for the best flavor and use only one-half or one-third the amount of cilantro called for in recipes.
Extend your cilantro harvest and enjoyment by utilizing every part of the plant. Adjust your cilantro growing techniques and plant selection to help beat the heat.
—————
Melinda Myers has written over 20 gardening books, including Midwest Gardener’s Handbook, Revised Edition, and Small Space Gardening. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” instant video and DVD series and the nationally syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine. Myers’ website is www.MelindaMyers.com.
Nominations Open for Forest Legacy Program
How do you protect your forest for future generations?
Michigan’s Forest Legacy Program offers some options. It provides the state with funding to purchase or secure conservation easements on environmentally important forest lands to ensure that our next generations can enjoy them as well.
The Forest Legacy Program is a partnership between the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Forest Service and the Michigan Department of Natural Resources.
“The Forest Legacy Program protects forest lands so they will provide the benefits of forests forever,” said Kerry Heckman, forest land administrator with the DNR’s Forest Resources Division. “Well-managed forests are a critical source of the forest products we use every day. Forests help provide us with clean air and water and are the places we love to hunt, hike, fish and connect with nature.”
Do you have a parcel that could benefit from Forest Legacy Program protection? Nomination applications for the nationally competitive program are due May 2.
Past examples of forest lands secured by the program are parcels along the Lake Superior shoreline and in the Pigeon River Country State Forest. More than 156,000 acres have been protected in Michigan. These forests were competitive for program funding because they:
• Are managed as working forests to keep them healthy and thriving.
• Contain prime fish and wildlife habitat.
• Offer outdoor places to enjoy.
• Benefit the forest products economy.
• Protected forests will always be forests.
The Forest Legacy Program provides an opportunity for landowners to keep forests as forests, encourages sustainable management and supports forest product markets.
All interests in land acquired by the Forest Legacy Program last forever. Agreements must contain language ensuring that rights are perpetual. Michigan’s program requires that Forest Legacy lands are open to the public, at a minimum, for nonmotorized access. Landowners who don’t have an existing forest management plan will need to develop one before a project can be completed.
The DNR will review and prioritize eligible projects and may submit up to three to compete nationally for funding. Projects nominated by May 2 will compete for funding in the fiscal year 2027 federal budget, which begins Oct. 1, 2026. The state can request up to $20 million for projects.
Find details and download a nomination application on the Forest Legacy Program webpage at michigan.gov/dnr/managing-resources/forestry/private/legacy. Email program lead Kerry Heckman at HeckmanK1@Michigan. gov for more information.
Michigan’s Forest Legacy Program offers some options. It provides the state with funding to purchase or secure conservation easements on environmentally important forest lands to ensure that our next generations can enjoy them as well.
The Forest Legacy Program is a partnership between the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Forest Service and the Michigan Department of Natural Resources.
“The Forest Legacy Program protects forest lands so they will provide the benefits of forests forever,” said Kerry Heckman, forest land administrator with the DNR’s Forest Resources Division. “Well-managed forests are a critical source of the forest products we use every day. Forests help provide us with clean air and water and are the places we love to hunt, hike, fish and connect with nature.”
Do you have a parcel that could benefit from Forest Legacy Program protection? Nomination applications for the nationally competitive program are due May 2.
Past examples of forest lands secured by the program are parcels along the Lake Superior shoreline and in the Pigeon River Country State Forest. More than 156,000 acres have been protected in Michigan. These forests were competitive for program funding because they:
• Are managed as working forests to keep them healthy and thriving.
• Contain prime fish and wildlife habitat.
• Offer outdoor places to enjoy.
• Benefit the forest products economy.
• Protected forests will always be forests.
The Forest Legacy Program provides an opportunity for landowners to keep forests as forests, encourages sustainable management and supports forest product markets.
All interests in land acquired by the Forest Legacy Program last forever. Agreements must contain language ensuring that rights are perpetual. Michigan’s program requires that Forest Legacy lands are open to the public, at a minimum, for nonmotorized access. Landowners who don’t have an existing forest management plan will need to develop one before a project can be completed.
The DNR will review and prioritize eligible projects and may submit up to three to compete nationally for funding. Projects nominated by May 2 will compete for funding in the fiscal year 2027 federal budget, which begins Oct. 1, 2026. The state can request up to $20 million for projects.
Find details and download a nomination application on the Forest Legacy Program webpage at michigan.gov/dnr/managing-resources/forestry/private/legacy. Email program lead Kerry Heckman at HeckmanK1@Michigan. gov for more information.
