Hocking Hills State Park in central Ohio is a popular destination for hikers and outdoor enthusiasts, featuring rock cliffs, caves, ravines and waterfalls.
By Jack Payne
It's a rarity for me to detail something out of state. A few weeks ago, my wife and I visited Hocking Hills, Ohio. The six-hour drive was well worth it. That is, if you enjoy hiking, seeing waterfalls, soaring rock cliffs, and a unique geological wonder.
Understand, we have some fantastic geological wonders in our state. Three areas come to my mind. The Copper Harbor area, Munising, and the Porcupine Mountain areas in the Upper Peninsula are a few examples.
But back to Hocking Hills. Sometimes it's plain fun to leave our state and see something new. The Hocking Hills area is a large tract of towering hills, featuring switchback curves and turns, followed by deep ravines.
There is a mix of history, folklore, and some unusual names. Whispering Cave, Old Man's Cave, Devil's Bathtub, Conkles Hollow, Ash Cave, and the Rock House, to name a few. Upper and Lower Falls, Cantwell Cliffs, Hemlock Bridge, Rose Lake, and Cedar Falls are just a few of the other notable places to see.
Ash Cave and Conkles Hollow offer a flat and easy walk that most folks of any age can enjoy. Both of these sites also provide a circular trail that takes you around the path of least resistance that I just mentioned.
The circular trails travel along the rim of the cave and hollows. This will provide a bird's-eye view of what's going on below. I suggest taking both of these trails. A totally different perspective when peeking over the edge. Stay on the trails and keep a safe distance from the edge of the cliffs. It's a long way down, and the ride will not be easy on your body.
Folks, what you need to understand is that this is hill country, and for the most part, walking up and down is part of the adventure. I would not call this overly strenuous for individuals who enjoy walking.
You can drive, park, and take a short walk to half of the sites. Some of these walks take 15 minutes, while others might take 30 minutes. Here is the kicker. If you visit during the summer or on a Saturday and Sunday in the fall, the parking areas can become full.
Therefore, I suggest taking one of the loop trails that covers four or five cool sites. Then take another loop and see another three or four more cool destinations.
Taking the loop trails is peaceful and really not that long. Some loops are doable in two hours, while another loop could take up to four hours.
My wife enjoyed the parking and taking the shorter and less strenuous walk. I found the loop trails incredibly scenic and relaxing. On any of the four main loops, caves, waterfalls, and jaw-dropping rocky cliffs will be seen.
The loop trails vary, ranging from a narrow path that allows only one person to walk to areas where you can walk two abreast. Hikers will also notice that some of the trails are one-way. This is especially true on the trails that are close to the parking lot.
The waterfalls were a trickle compared to their norm. The drought really took a toll on the falls. However, what you see is still breathtaking and worth the hike and the effort.
The short main trails will have a steady stream of hikers — the loops, especially on a weekday in the fall, are much quieter. I met hikers on the loops, but we were spaced out, and there were many periods of total silence and solitude.
An average pair of walking tennis shoes will suffice for most of the short hikes. On longer trails and loops, I recommend a proper hiking shoe. The trails have roots, mud, small rocks, and boulders. You want a shoe that will stay in place and not slip.
I did not have a walking stick with me, but there were times when it would have been nice. I also suggest carrying a bottle of water when hiking the loops. Give Hocking Hills a try next year and stop in at Bob's Gun and Tackle Shop.
It's a rarity for me to detail something out of state. A few weeks ago, my wife and I visited Hocking Hills, Ohio. The six-hour drive was well worth it. That is, if you enjoy hiking, seeing waterfalls, soaring rock cliffs, and a unique geological wonder.
Understand, we have some fantastic geological wonders in our state. Three areas come to my mind. The Copper Harbor area, Munising, and the Porcupine Mountain areas in the Upper Peninsula are a few examples.
But back to Hocking Hills. Sometimes it's plain fun to leave our state and see something new. The Hocking Hills area is a large tract of towering hills, featuring switchback curves and turns, followed by deep ravines.
There is a mix of history, folklore, and some unusual names. Whispering Cave, Old Man's Cave, Devil's Bathtub, Conkles Hollow, Ash Cave, and the Rock House, to name a few. Upper and Lower Falls, Cantwell Cliffs, Hemlock Bridge, Rose Lake, and Cedar Falls are just a few of the other notable places to see.
Ash Cave and Conkles Hollow offer a flat and easy walk that most folks of any age can enjoy. Both of these sites also provide a circular trail that takes you around the path of least resistance that I just mentioned.
The circular trails travel along the rim of the cave and hollows. This will provide a bird's-eye view of what's going on below. I suggest taking both of these trails. A totally different perspective when peeking over the edge. Stay on the trails and keep a safe distance from the edge of the cliffs. It's a long way down, and the ride will not be easy on your body.
Folks, what you need to understand is that this is hill country, and for the most part, walking up and down is part of the adventure. I would not call this overly strenuous for individuals who enjoy walking.
You can drive, park, and take a short walk to half of the sites. Some of these walks take 15 minutes, while others might take 30 minutes. Here is the kicker. If you visit during the summer or on a Saturday and Sunday in the fall, the parking areas can become full.
Therefore, I suggest taking one of the loop trails that covers four or five cool sites. Then take another loop and see another three or four more cool destinations.
Taking the loop trails is peaceful and really not that long. Some loops are doable in two hours, while another loop could take up to four hours.
My wife enjoyed the parking and taking the shorter and less strenuous walk. I found the loop trails incredibly scenic and relaxing. On any of the four main loops, caves, waterfalls, and jaw-dropping rocky cliffs will be seen.
The loop trails vary, ranging from a narrow path that allows only one person to walk to areas where you can walk two abreast. Hikers will also notice that some of the trails are one-way. This is especially true on the trails that are close to the parking lot.
The waterfalls were a trickle compared to their norm. The drought really took a toll on the falls. However, what you see is still breathtaking and worth the hike and the effort.
The short main trails will have a steady stream of hikers — the loops, especially on a weekday in the fall, are much quieter. I met hikers on the loops, but we were spaced out, and there were many periods of total silence and solitude.
An average pair of walking tennis shoes will suffice for most of the short hikes. On longer trails and loops, I recommend a proper hiking shoe. The trails have roots, mud, small rocks, and boulders. You want a shoe that will stay in place and not slip.
I did not have a walking stick with me, but there were times when it would have been nice. I also suggest carrying a bottle of water when hiking the loops. Give Hocking Hills a try next year and stop in at Bob's Gun and Tackle Shop.
Need Firewood on a Budget? Fuelwood Permits Are Good Through Dec. 31
If you’re feeling a budget pinch this fall, consider “shopping” for firewood from dead or downed trees in a state forest near you.
Fuelwood permits cost $20 and allow collection of fuelwood for personal use from select state-managed land in the Upper Peninsula and northern Lower Peninsula.
Permit holders may collect up to five standard cords of wood, a stack measuring 4 feet by 4 feet by 8 feet. In the 12-county area affected by the severe ice storm in March, the limit is raised to 10 cords. Collected wood must be from already dead and downed trees within 200 feet of the road.
There are three ways to get fuelwood permits, which are good through Dec. 31:
• Buy a permit online at mdnr-e license.com.
• Purchase a permit in person at DNR customer service centers in the northern Lower Peninsula or Upper Peninsula. A few forestry field offices also will sell permits in person; call to confirm business hours and availability.
• Mail an application to the DNR office that manages the state forest land where you wish to collect fuelwood.
A few rules are in place to ensure wood is collected safely and sustainably:
• Do not drive vehicles off the road, though you may use a wheelbarrow or handcart to carry wood to your vehicle.
• Gather wood only from already dead and downed trees; do not remove wood from trees that are dead and still standing.
• Have your permit with you and fill out the collection log before transporting your wood. Failure to do so could result in a citation.
• Do not sell or trade firewood. It is for personal use only.
• Avoid spreading invasive pests and diseases; collect firewood near where it will be used.
If you’re collecting wood in the northern Lower Peninsula this year, ice storm debris can be treacherous. Be aware of your surroundings and look for hazards on the ground and overhead when collecting wood. If you are collecting wood during deer season, consider wearing blaze orange for visibility.
For more information on fuelwood permits and list of frequently asked questions, visit Michigan.gov/Fuelwood.
Fuelwood permits cost $20 and allow collection of fuelwood for personal use from select state-managed land in the Upper Peninsula and northern Lower Peninsula.
Permit holders may collect up to five standard cords of wood, a stack measuring 4 feet by 4 feet by 8 feet. In the 12-county area affected by the severe ice storm in March, the limit is raised to 10 cords. Collected wood must be from already dead and downed trees within 200 feet of the road.
There are three ways to get fuelwood permits, which are good through Dec. 31:
• Buy a permit online at mdnr-e license.com.
• Purchase a permit in person at DNR customer service centers in the northern Lower Peninsula or Upper Peninsula. A few forestry field offices also will sell permits in person; call to confirm business hours and availability.
• Mail an application to the DNR office that manages the state forest land where you wish to collect fuelwood.
A few rules are in place to ensure wood is collected safely and sustainably:
• Do not drive vehicles off the road, though you may use a wheelbarrow or handcart to carry wood to your vehicle.
• Gather wood only from already dead and downed trees; do not remove wood from trees that are dead and still standing.
• Have your permit with you and fill out the collection log before transporting your wood. Failure to do so could result in a citation.
• Do not sell or trade firewood. It is for personal use only.
• Avoid spreading invasive pests and diseases; collect firewood near where it will be used.
If you’re collecting wood in the northern Lower Peninsula this year, ice storm debris can be treacherous. Be aware of your surroundings and look for hazards on the ground and overhead when collecting wood. If you are collecting wood during deer season, consider wearing blaze orange for visibility.
For more information on fuelwood permits and list of frequently asked questions, visit Michigan.gov/Fuelwood.
Check Trees for Hemlock Woolly Adelgid
The Michigan departments of Natural Resources and Agriculture and Rural Development encourage those who have eastern hemlock trees on their property to take time this winter to inspect the trees for signs of hemlock woolly adelgid – tiny, soft-bodied insects that consume the trees’ stored nutrients, slowly sucking the life from the trees.
Anyone taking to the woods also can help by looking for signs of this invasive insect while hunting, hiking or enjoying other outdoor activities.
Winter is the best time to look for evidence of an infestation, according to Robert Miller, MDARD’s invasive species prevention and response specialist.
“Cooler temperatures trigger feeding activity,” Miller said. “As the hemlock woolly adelgid feeds, it secretes a white, waxy material that creates ovisacs. The presence of these small, round, white masses makes it possible to identify infested trees.”
These insects are considered invasive because they are not native to the state and can cause significant harm to Michigan’s estimated 170 million hemlock trees.
Infestations of hemlock woolly adelgid have been confirmed in Allegan, Antrim, Benzie, Leelanau, Manistee, Mason, Muskegon, Oceana, Ottawa, Van Buren and Washtenaw counties.
Throughout the winter, survey crews from the DNR and multiple cooperative invasive species management areas, or CISMAs, will look for signs of hemlock woolly adelgids. Crews will focus their efforts along the northern edge of the infestation, conducting surveys within a 5-mile border along the Lake Michigan shoreline.
Because hemlock trees can be protected from these insects with proper insecticide treatments, infested trees and any other hemlocks within the area will be mapped and tagged, then prioritized for summer treatment.
If designated survey areas include private lands, CISMAs first will seek landowner permission. CISMA survey efforts are supported by funds from the Michigan Invasive Species Grant Program and the U.S. Forest Service and are provided at no cost to these landowners.
Though dozens of staff will assist in the surveys, they won’t be able to check every hemlock. If you have hemlocks on your property, whether it’s within or beyond the 5-mile shoreline border, take some time to look for signs of hemlock woolly adelgid.
Anyone spending time outdoors is encouraged to do the same. Remember to take precautions and wear hunter orange during hunting seasons.
In Michigan’s northern forests, hemlock trees are found in moist soils along streams and riverbanks and along coastal dunes. Hemlock also is popular as a landscape tree in parks and residential areas.
Since these adelgids feed and form ovisacs only on eastern hemlock trees in Michigan, it is important to distinguish hemlocks from other conifers like pines or spruces. Look for:
• Cone- or egg-shaped trees up to 75 feet tall.
• Drooping or feathery branches.
• Flat needles growing individually from the sides of twigs.
• Needles that are dark green on top with two parallel, white stripes underneath.
• Papery cones about three-quarters of an inch long that hang downward from branches.
Late fall through early spring is the best time to check hemlock trees. Look on the undersides of branches for evidence of round, white ovisacs near the base of the needles.
Up close, ovisacs look like tiny cotton balls and may appear alone or in clusters. The short video “Hemlock woolly adelgid: invasive species in Michigan” provides helpful identification tips.
Report infested hemlock trees by using the Midwest Invasive Species Information Network, available online at MISIN.MSU. edu or as a downloadable smartphone app. The MISIN smartphone app will take a GPS location point if a report is made at the site; it also will allow you to upload photos with a report.
Reports also can be made by email to MDA-Info@Michigan. gov or by phone to MDARD’s Customer Service Center at 800-292-3939.
Identify the location of infested trees and, whenever possible, take one or two pictures of infested branches to help confirm identification. To avoid spreading the insect, do not collect sample branches or twigs.
If you find hemlock woolly adelgid on your property, it is important to know that certain insecticides are effective in treating the infestation if used correctly. You can plan now for spring or summer treatment.
Without treatment, infested trees will die within four to 10 years. A qualified arborist, such as one certified by the International Society of Arboriculture, can diagnose and assist with treating infested trees.
If you are able to handle treatment on your own, follow the guidance provided in the Michigan State University Extension bulletin “How to treat hemlock trees for hemlock woolly adelgid.”
Reporting infested trees, even if you will be managing them on your own, is important to help determine how far hemlock woolly adelgid has spread. This information also indicates where additional surveys may be needed.
For more information on identification, reporting or treatment, visit the Michigan Invasive Species Program’s hemlock woolly adelgid page at Michigan.gov/HWA.
Anyone taking to the woods also can help by looking for signs of this invasive insect while hunting, hiking or enjoying other outdoor activities.
Winter is the best time to look for evidence of an infestation, according to Robert Miller, MDARD’s invasive species prevention and response specialist.
“Cooler temperatures trigger feeding activity,” Miller said. “As the hemlock woolly adelgid feeds, it secretes a white, waxy material that creates ovisacs. The presence of these small, round, white masses makes it possible to identify infested trees.”
These insects are considered invasive because they are not native to the state and can cause significant harm to Michigan’s estimated 170 million hemlock trees.
Infestations of hemlock woolly adelgid have been confirmed in Allegan, Antrim, Benzie, Leelanau, Manistee, Mason, Muskegon, Oceana, Ottawa, Van Buren and Washtenaw counties.
Throughout the winter, survey crews from the DNR and multiple cooperative invasive species management areas, or CISMAs, will look for signs of hemlock woolly adelgids. Crews will focus their efforts along the northern edge of the infestation, conducting surveys within a 5-mile border along the Lake Michigan shoreline.
Because hemlock trees can be protected from these insects with proper insecticide treatments, infested trees and any other hemlocks within the area will be mapped and tagged, then prioritized for summer treatment.
If designated survey areas include private lands, CISMAs first will seek landowner permission. CISMA survey efforts are supported by funds from the Michigan Invasive Species Grant Program and the U.S. Forest Service and are provided at no cost to these landowners.
Though dozens of staff will assist in the surveys, they won’t be able to check every hemlock. If you have hemlocks on your property, whether it’s within or beyond the 5-mile shoreline border, take some time to look for signs of hemlock woolly adelgid.
Anyone spending time outdoors is encouraged to do the same. Remember to take precautions and wear hunter orange during hunting seasons.
In Michigan’s northern forests, hemlock trees are found in moist soils along streams and riverbanks and along coastal dunes. Hemlock also is popular as a landscape tree in parks and residential areas.
Since these adelgids feed and form ovisacs only on eastern hemlock trees in Michigan, it is important to distinguish hemlocks from other conifers like pines or spruces. Look for:
• Cone- or egg-shaped trees up to 75 feet tall.
• Drooping or feathery branches.
• Flat needles growing individually from the sides of twigs.
• Needles that are dark green on top with two parallel, white stripes underneath.
• Papery cones about three-quarters of an inch long that hang downward from branches.
Late fall through early spring is the best time to check hemlock trees. Look on the undersides of branches for evidence of round, white ovisacs near the base of the needles.
Up close, ovisacs look like tiny cotton balls and may appear alone or in clusters. The short video “Hemlock woolly adelgid: invasive species in Michigan” provides helpful identification tips.
Report infested hemlock trees by using the Midwest Invasive Species Information Network, available online at MISIN.MSU. edu or as a downloadable smartphone app. The MISIN smartphone app will take a GPS location point if a report is made at the site; it also will allow you to upload photos with a report.
Reports also can be made by email to MDA-Info@Michigan. gov or by phone to MDARD’s Customer Service Center at 800-292-3939.
Identify the location of infested trees and, whenever possible, take one or two pictures of infested branches to help confirm identification. To avoid spreading the insect, do not collect sample branches or twigs.
If you find hemlock woolly adelgid on your property, it is important to know that certain insecticides are effective in treating the infestation if used correctly. You can plan now for spring or summer treatment.
Without treatment, infested trees will die within four to 10 years. A qualified arborist, such as one certified by the International Society of Arboriculture, can diagnose and assist with treating infested trees.
If you are able to handle treatment on your own, follow the guidance provided in the Michigan State University Extension bulletin “How to treat hemlock trees for hemlock woolly adelgid.”
Reporting infested trees, even if you will be managing them on your own, is important to help determine how far hemlock woolly adelgid has spread. This information also indicates where additional surveys may be needed.
For more information on identification, reporting or treatment, visit the Michigan Invasive Species Program’s hemlock woolly adelgid page at Michigan.gov/HWA.
Outdoor Truths: In a Fog
By Gary Miller
One of the conditions that hunters must face this time of year is the fog.
Sometimes it lingers seemingly all day making it difficult to see, especially when hunting with firearms. And then there’s the drive to the hunt. Just seeing each turn can sometimes be almost impossible without some type of marker.
This is the case at one of my hunting locations. Over the years I have marked a particular turn by a light. While driving down the road this light creates an illusion that it is in the middle of the road. If there’s no fog, I can see it for at least a mile away. I simply drive to it and then make the turn. It makes everything easy.
When there’s a thick fog, this makes it more difficult because now I have to be close to it before I see it. And I have passed it up a few times. The key is slowing down, locating the light, and heading in the right direction.
Sometimes my life seems like I’m living in a fog. Rarely do my directions seem clear and knowing which way to go is difficult to discern.
The problem is just like my attempt at hunting; I sometimes forget to slow down and locate the markers that give me the help I need. I instead complain about uncertainty or God’s lack of communication and continue to barrel down the road without adjusting for this fog I’m now in.
The truth is, when these conditions show up in my life, I cannot continue to travel as I have been. I must make the necessary adjustments in order that I don’t miss the turn I need to take.
The light that marks my way is still there. He is as sure and stable as any marker we might have in our life. But sometimes we must approach slowly, linger longer, and move toward our change of direction with a greater focus on the turn.
Are you living in a fog right now? Have you uttered complaints about the seeming lack of God’s guidance? Are you getting ready to make a move even though you are unsure about the direction? Maybe you need to slow down.
The light is still there, but in the fog you’ll have to draw a little closer before you see it. But when you do, you’ll discover this was precisely the reason for the fog – not to hide His will, but to bring you nearer to the One who gives it.
—————
Gary Miller has written Outdoor Truths articles for 22 years. He has also written five books which include compilations of his articles and a father/son devotional. He also speaks at wild-game dinners and men’s events for churches and associations. Write to him at gary@outdoortruths.org.
One of the conditions that hunters must face this time of year is the fog.
Sometimes it lingers seemingly all day making it difficult to see, especially when hunting with firearms. And then there’s the drive to the hunt. Just seeing each turn can sometimes be almost impossible without some type of marker.
This is the case at one of my hunting locations. Over the years I have marked a particular turn by a light. While driving down the road this light creates an illusion that it is in the middle of the road. If there’s no fog, I can see it for at least a mile away. I simply drive to it and then make the turn. It makes everything easy.
When there’s a thick fog, this makes it more difficult because now I have to be close to it before I see it. And I have passed it up a few times. The key is slowing down, locating the light, and heading in the right direction.
Sometimes my life seems like I’m living in a fog. Rarely do my directions seem clear and knowing which way to go is difficult to discern.
The problem is just like my attempt at hunting; I sometimes forget to slow down and locate the markers that give me the help I need. I instead complain about uncertainty or God’s lack of communication and continue to barrel down the road without adjusting for this fog I’m now in.
The truth is, when these conditions show up in my life, I cannot continue to travel as I have been. I must make the necessary adjustments in order that I don’t miss the turn I need to take.
The light that marks my way is still there. He is as sure and stable as any marker we might have in our life. But sometimes we must approach slowly, linger longer, and move toward our change of direction with a greater focus on the turn.
Are you living in a fog right now? Have you uttered complaints about the seeming lack of God’s guidance? Are you getting ready to make a move even though you are unsure about the direction? Maybe you need to slow down.
The light is still there, but in the fog you’ll have to draw a little closer before you see it. But when you do, you’ll discover this was precisely the reason for the fog – not to hide His will, but to bring you nearer to the One who gives it.
—————
Gary Miller has written Outdoor Truths articles for 22 years. He has also written five books which include compilations of his articles and a father/son devotional. He also speaks at wild-game dinners and men’s events for churches and associations. Write to him at gary@outdoortruths.org.
Ready to Ride? Snowmobile Season Starts Dec. 1
With state-designated snowmobile trails set to open Dec. 1 – trail grooming occurs when there is enough snow on the ground – now is a good time to prep for the season, starting with purchasing your snowmobile trail permit.
Michigan is home to 6,100-plus miles of Department of Natural Resources-designated snowmobile trails, public roads and public lands (only where riding is authorized).
Did you know that nearly 1,900 private landowners allow use of their land to create the trails network? Their generosity allows the DNR to offer trails that connect communities and bring snowmobilers to places of interest that otherwise wouldn’t be available to them.
“We’re incredibly grateful to these property owners and their partnerships with their local snowmobile clubs,” said Ron Yesney, U.P. trails coordinator for the DNR Parks and Recreation Division. “It’s important for all of us to give thanks to these landowners and to remember to be respectful of the land, wherever we ride.”
Snowmobile trail permits are $52 and?are valid for one year, beginning Oct. 1 and ending Sept. 30 of the following year. Buy permits online through?eLicense?(your sticker will be mailed within seven to 10 days) or the?Michigan Snowmobile and ORV Association?(which processes permit orders daily Monday through Friday) or in person at DNR license agents and dealers.
Always Ride Right: Ride sober, ride at safe speeds and ride on the right side of the trail. Get more tips at Michigan.gov/RideRight.
Residents must also?register snowmobiles with the Michigan Secretary of State?(unless sleds are used solely on private property). Registration is good for three years, and those registration dollars support the purchase of easements, law enforcement on trails and safety education.
The snowmobile program is 100 percent funded by trail permit and registration dollars that are directly reinvested into the program to benefit snowmobilers. The funds pay for grooming, signage, maintenance, bridge and culvert construction, purchase of new equipment, liability insurance, maintenance of trailhead amenities (signage, bathrooms, plowing of parking lots) and other snowmobile-related expenditures.
Remember that some snowmobile trails may not be open Dec. 1 due to trail conditions or other factors such as in-progress maintenance projects or landowners wanting solitude during the muzzleloading deer hunting season, which takes place Dec. 5-14. Know before you go by checking the DNR’s closures webpage.
Learn more at Michigan.gov/Snowmobiling. Questions? Contact Ron Yesney at 906-228-6561.
Michigan is home to 6,100-plus miles of Department of Natural Resources-designated snowmobile trails, public roads and public lands (only where riding is authorized).
Did you know that nearly 1,900 private landowners allow use of their land to create the trails network? Their generosity allows the DNR to offer trails that connect communities and bring snowmobilers to places of interest that otherwise wouldn’t be available to them.
“We’re incredibly grateful to these property owners and their partnerships with their local snowmobile clubs,” said Ron Yesney, U.P. trails coordinator for the DNR Parks and Recreation Division. “It’s important for all of us to give thanks to these landowners and to remember to be respectful of the land, wherever we ride.”
Snowmobile trail permits are $52 and?are valid for one year, beginning Oct. 1 and ending Sept. 30 of the following year. Buy permits online through?eLicense?(your sticker will be mailed within seven to 10 days) or the?Michigan Snowmobile and ORV Association?(which processes permit orders daily Monday through Friday) or in person at DNR license agents and dealers.
Always Ride Right: Ride sober, ride at safe speeds and ride on the right side of the trail. Get more tips at Michigan.gov/RideRight.
Residents must also?register snowmobiles with the Michigan Secretary of State?(unless sleds are used solely on private property). Registration is good for three years, and those registration dollars support the purchase of easements, law enforcement on trails and safety education.
The snowmobile program is 100 percent funded by trail permit and registration dollars that are directly reinvested into the program to benefit snowmobilers. The funds pay for grooming, signage, maintenance, bridge and culvert construction, purchase of new equipment, liability insurance, maintenance of trailhead amenities (signage, bathrooms, plowing of parking lots) and other snowmobile-related expenditures.
Remember that some snowmobile trails may not be open Dec. 1 due to trail conditions or other factors such as in-progress maintenance projects or landowners wanting solitude during the muzzleloading deer hunting season, which takes place Dec. 5-14. Know before you go by checking the DNR’s closures webpage.
Learn more at Michigan.gov/Snowmobiling. Questions? Contact Ron Yesney at 906-228-6561.
Bring a Bit of Spring Indoors this Winter
A container of forced grape hyacinth, daffodil and tulip bulbs.
Photo courtesy MelindaMyers.com
By Melinda Myers
Pot them up, give them a chill and enjoy spring flowering bulbs indoors or outside on a patio, deck or porch. Forcing spring-flowering bulbs like tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, grape hyacinths and crocus is a great way to use those bulbs that didn’t get planted in the garden or were on sale late in the season.
All you need is a suitable container, some well-drained potting mix, the bulbs and a place to give the bulbs the chill necessary to force them to bloom. Gather all your supplies and clear a space to assemble your bulb planter.
Select a container with drainage holes that is deep enough to accommodate the largest bulbs. Shorter varieties are less likely to flop but taller ones can be held upright with stakes, twigs and other decorative supports. Cover the bottom of the container with two inches of a well-drained potting mix. Place the bulbs close together about one-half the bulb width apart with the neck of larger bulbs at or just below the soil surface. Set tulips with the flat side of the bulb facing the pot for a better display.
Create a spring garden in a larger container by using a deep container and planting the bulbs in layers. Select a variety of bulbs that bloom at the same time for greater impact or use a combination of early-, mid- and late-blooming spring-flowering bulbs to extend the bloom time and your enjoyment. The package usually lists the color, height and bloom time of the bulbs.
Place an inch or two of soil in the bottom and set the largest bulbs in place. Cover these bulbs with soil and add the smaller bulbs, like grape hyacinths and crocus, on the next level. Plant these bulbs close together for greater impact. Cover this layer with at least an inch of soil. Water thoroughly until the excess water drains out the bottom of the pot.
Move your bulb-filled containers to a cool location where temperatures remain above freezing and between 35 to 45°F for 12 to 15 weeks. A spare refrigerator works well for this. Just avoid storing the bulbs with fruit, like apples and pears, that emit ethylene gas that can negatively impact flowering. If refrigerator space is limited, you can store the unplanted bulbs in a paper bag, so they take up less space in the fridge for the needed chill before planting.
Those gardening in colder climates can also store the pots in an unheated garage. Just water the containers whenever the soil is thawed and dry. Or sink the container into a vacant garden space in your landscape. Mulch the soil once the ground starts to freeze with evergreen boughs. The winter mulch makes retrieving the container easier in winter or early spring.
Begin moving the containers out of cold storage once the 12-to-15-week chilling period is complete. Extend your enjoyment and the bloom time by removing one or just a few pots every week. Place the pot in a cool, bright location to encourage more compact growth. Water thoroughly when the top few inches of soil begin to dry. Soon the leaves will begin to sprout, and flowers will appear in about three to four weeks.
Provide ongoing care if you plan on moving the bulbs into the garden. Remove the faded flowers, place the leafy plants in a sunny window and water thoroughly whenever the top inch of soil is dry. Fertilize with a dilute solution of any flowering houseplant fertilizer. Move them into the garden once the danger of frost has passed. Be patient because it may be a year or two before they bloom again.
Plant plenty for you to enjoy and share with others. Everyone will appreciate the extra spring color the forced bulbs provide.
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Melinda Myers has written more than 20 gardening books, including the Midwest Gardener’s Handbook, 2nd Edition and Small Space Gardening. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” streaming courses and the nationally syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine and her website is MelindaMyers.com.
Pot them up, give them a chill and enjoy spring flowering bulbs indoors or outside on a patio, deck or porch. Forcing spring-flowering bulbs like tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, grape hyacinths and crocus is a great way to use those bulbs that didn’t get planted in the garden or were on sale late in the season.
All you need is a suitable container, some well-drained potting mix, the bulbs and a place to give the bulbs the chill necessary to force them to bloom. Gather all your supplies and clear a space to assemble your bulb planter.
Select a container with drainage holes that is deep enough to accommodate the largest bulbs. Shorter varieties are less likely to flop but taller ones can be held upright with stakes, twigs and other decorative supports. Cover the bottom of the container with two inches of a well-drained potting mix. Place the bulbs close together about one-half the bulb width apart with the neck of larger bulbs at or just below the soil surface. Set tulips with the flat side of the bulb facing the pot for a better display.
Create a spring garden in a larger container by using a deep container and planting the bulbs in layers. Select a variety of bulbs that bloom at the same time for greater impact or use a combination of early-, mid- and late-blooming spring-flowering bulbs to extend the bloom time and your enjoyment. The package usually lists the color, height and bloom time of the bulbs.
Place an inch or two of soil in the bottom and set the largest bulbs in place. Cover these bulbs with soil and add the smaller bulbs, like grape hyacinths and crocus, on the next level. Plant these bulbs close together for greater impact. Cover this layer with at least an inch of soil. Water thoroughly until the excess water drains out the bottom of the pot.
Move your bulb-filled containers to a cool location where temperatures remain above freezing and between 35 to 45°F for 12 to 15 weeks. A spare refrigerator works well for this. Just avoid storing the bulbs with fruit, like apples and pears, that emit ethylene gas that can negatively impact flowering. If refrigerator space is limited, you can store the unplanted bulbs in a paper bag, so they take up less space in the fridge for the needed chill before planting.
Those gardening in colder climates can also store the pots in an unheated garage. Just water the containers whenever the soil is thawed and dry. Or sink the container into a vacant garden space in your landscape. Mulch the soil once the ground starts to freeze with evergreen boughs. The winter mulch makes retrieving the container easier in winter or early spring.
Begin moving the containers out of cold storage once the 12-to-15-week chilling period is complete. Extend your enjoyment and the bloom time by removing one or just a few pots every week. Place the pot in a cool, bright location to encourage more compact growth. Water thoroughly when the top few inches of soil begin to dry. Soon the leaves will begin to sprout, and flowers will appear in about three to four weeks.
Provide ongoing care if you plan on moving the bulbs into the garden. Remove the faded flowers, place the leafy plants in a sunny window and water thoroughly whenever the top inch of soil is dry. Fertilize with a dilute solution of any flowering houseplant fertilizer. Move them into the garden once the danger of frost has passed. Be patient because it may be a year or two before they bloom again.
Plant plenty for you to enjoy and share with others. Everyone will appreciate the extra spring color the forced bulbs provide.
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Melinda Myers has written more than 20 gardening books, including the Midwest Gardener’s Handbook, 2nd Edition and Small Space Gardening. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” streaming courses and the nationally syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine and her website is MelindaMyers.com.
