Cooking with Love: Stop and smell the garlic

Majida Rashid

There is no evil that lasts a hundred years, nor a garlic soup that cannot cure it. 
— A Spanish proverb


Growing up I heard that whenever crawling babies caught cold or sniffled, their grandmothers made them wear a loose garland of peeled garlic cloves to ward off cold. But I frowned upon such practices for lack of scientific evidence. 

Decades later scientific research revealed that garlic is filled with various sulfides, allicin, alliin and other bioactive compounds that act as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial. Scientists also realized that these qualities work only after crushing the garlic. Pakistani grandmothers knew without any research! Babies must have rubbed the garlic in their hands and even chewed them. This helped get rid of cold. 

Studies about garlic along with proof of many other alternative remedies that I had heard about made me think this: How many scientists inhabit this earth. Additionally, how many of them are aware of deeply entrenched cultural practices of unvisited countries. Hence, I no longer wait for scientific proof to test something that has been used elsewhere for centuries. After all, thousands of years ago Egyptians and Chinese used garlic not only in cooking but as a remedy for various ailments. 

Soon after discovering the benefits of garlic, American companies started selling garlic capsules. Swallowing whole cloves was also touted, something no one does in cultures where garlic has been used for centuries. In fact, eating garlic sauces are avoided before a social event because eating raw garlic results in bad breath. 

There are several varieties of garlic. The size of cloves, their fragrance and flavor varied in various countries that I’ve lived in. However, the most common varieties sold in American stores are Hardneck, garlic with purplish-streak skin, and white-skinned garlic called Softneck. 

It’s best to buy firm garlic with blemish-free skin. To peel garlic: Put a few cloves on a cutting board. Then place the wide side of a chef’s knife on the cloves and whack it with the palm. This loosens the skin which can easily be removed. However, the hollow tube of a silicon peeler works magic. Just put a few cloves in the tube and roll it with pressure. The skin will peel away without much ado. Peeled garlic also freezes well. I sometimes buy peeled garlic cloves and freeze them, though their flavor becomes milder than the freshly peeled ones.

No Pakistani and other Asian savory dishes are complete without garlic. Chinese cooks add garlic chives in dumplings, soups and stir-fried dishes. 

In Shiraz, Iran, dinner always had tareh, raw garlic chives. Sometimes my landlady’s sister took me to pick wild chives. Iranians regularly consumed Mast-O-Musir, a dip made with yogurt and a special type of garlic.

Arab, Greek and Turkish cuisines also use garlic in abundance. Skorthalia or Skordalia is synonymous with Greek cuisine. Traditionally it’s made in a pestle and mortar but a food processor comes in handy.

Skorthalia has a lot of variations. Some Greeks utilize either pita bread or boiled potatoes, others use both. Nuts can either be almonds or walnuts. I adjust the number of garlic cloves and pita depending on my guests. Occasionally, I use this recipe to make salad dressing but without nuts, with half of the oil and only two tablespoons of strained pita. 

Skorthalia’s flavor improves after an hour. It can be refrigerated for up to four days. 


Skorthalia


(Serves 2-3)

Ingredients

4-6 plump garlic cloves, halved

1/4 cup vinegar

A pinch of salt

1-2 small pita breads

1/2 cup ground almonds

1-2 tablespoons lemon juice

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground white or black pepper or a few peppercorns

1/2 cup olive oil

Directions


Soak the cloves in salt and vinegar for 10 minutes. Adding peppercorns is optional.

Place the pita in water for a few minutes and then squeeze out.

Blend together all the ingredients except the oil.

Gradually add olive oil in small quantities at a time and blend after each addition.

Transfer onto a bowl and serve with pita chips or spread on bread slices before making a sandwich.