Majida Rashid
When it comes to soups, I think Iranian Aash(es) are the best. They are nutritious and hearty. Their alluring smell lingers in the air even on the second day of cooking. I was introduced to this aash in Shiraz. This ancient city of Iran is the resting place of the 13th and 14th century revered Persian poets, Saddi and Hafez. Hospitality and friendliness of Shirazis is renowned throughout Iran.
During my stay in Iran, I learned that each city in a region had their own specialties and version of cooking a particular dish. Shirazi cooks use more herbs than other regions.
Iranians soak their rice for up to six hours prior to cooking. Beans can be soaked overnight. But soaking them for a few hours would also work.
Kashk is dried yoghurt and it is sold in solid chunks in Iran. The Middle Eastern stores in America sell the creamy version of kashk. Its flavor is a little different from regular yoghurt. Flour prevents curdling of kashk.
Making this aash, at first glance, looks elaborate but after making it once it becomes easier. Herbs and spinach can be cleaned and chopped a day in advance. Meat and beans can also be cooked a day earlier. Some cooks mix very little kashk and then use the remaining to lavishly garnish the soup before serving. People also blend everything together before mixing in kashk. The soup can last for a few days and its flavor improves.
I learned this aash without meat but meat is also added, especially the outlets where they sell just the aash. Whole lamb shank is the best. Sauté an onion in a few tablespoons of oil over medium high heat. Add a pound of lamb, half a teaspoon of turmeric powder, salt and black pepper and stir over high heat so the meat doesn’t leave juices. Pour 6-8 cups water and bring to a boil. Simmer, uncovered, for a couple of hours or longer. Remove the bones and mix the meat in the aash when rice is added.
Aash-e-Berinj
(Rice Soup)
(Serves 3-4)
Ingredients
3/4 cup yellow split peas
3/4 cup black-eyed beans
3/4 cup chickpeas
3/4 cup whole green lentils
1 cup short grain rice
1-1 ½ teaspoons salt
3/4-1 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 cup each of finely chopped fresh chives, coriander, dill and flat-leaved parsley
2 bunches fresh spinach leaves, finely chopped
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour, optional
1-2 cups kashk
For the garnish:
3 tablespoons cooking oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2-3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1-2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint leaves
Or
1/2-1 teaspoon dried mint
Directions
Separately soak all the beans and lentils overnight.
Soak the rice for several hours.
The next day, boil together the peas and the beans in 10 cups water.
In another pan mix the lentils with 5 cups of water and cook for half an hour.
Drain and discard the liquid from both pans.
In a pan, mix together the lentils and beans with 12 cups water.
Cover and cook over low heat for 2 hours, stirring occasionally.
Add pepper and 1 teaspoon salt and cook for another half hour. Add boiling water, if required.
Mix in the herbs and spinach and cook for another half an hour, stirring occasionally.
Drain the rice and add to the soup and cook for an hour, stirring frequently.
Aash can be blended at this stage.
Heat the flour in a dry pan over low heat.
Cool it and mix it with 1/2 cup water. Add to the aash.
Gradually mix about 1 cup of soup with 1 cup of kashk and pour back to the aash.
Taste and adjust seasoning and pour the Aash into a serving bowls and leave aside.
For the garnish
Heat 2 tablespoons oil and fry the onion until golden brown, drain and leave aside.
Fry the garlic in the remaining oil until golden brown.
Mix in the mint, stir a little and pour over the soup in the serving bowls. Sprinkle with the browned onions and garlic.
Serve immediately with hot naan.
During my stay in Iran, I learned that each city in a region had their own specialties and version of cooking a particular dish. Shirazi cooks use more herbs than other regions.
Iranians soak their rice for up to six hours prior to cooking. Beans can be soaked overnight. But soaking them for a few hours would also work.
Kashk is dried yoghurt and it is sold in solid chunks in Iran. The Middle Eastern stores in America sell the creamy version of kashk. Its flavor is a little different from regular yoghurt. Flour prevents curdling of kashk.
Making this aash, at first glance, looks elaborate but after making it once it becomes easier. Herbs and spinach can be cleaned and chopped a day in advance. Meat and beans can also be cooked a day earlier. Some cooks mix very little kashk and then use the remaining to lavishly garnish the soup before serving. People also blend everything together before mixing in kashk. The soup can last for a few days and its flavor improves.
I learned this aash without meat but meat is also added, especially the outlets where they sell just the aash. Whole lamb shank is the best. Sauté an onion in a few tablespoons of oil over medium high heat. Add a pound of lamb, half a teaspoon of turmeric powder, salt and black pepper and stir over high heat so the meat doesn’t leave juices. Pour 6-8 cups water and bring to a boil. Simmer, uncovered, for a couple of hours or longer. Remove the bones and mix the meat in the aash when rice is added.
Aash-e-Berinj
(Rice Soup)
(Serves 3-4)
Ingredients
3/4 cup yellow split peas
3/4 cup black-eyed beans
3/4 cup chickpeas
3/4 cup whole green lentils
1 cup short grain rice
1-1 ½ teaspoons salt
3/4-1 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 cup each of finely chopped fresh chives, coriander, dill and flat-leaved parsley
2 bunches fresh spinach leaves, finely chopped
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour, optional
1-2 cups kashk
For the garnish:
3 tablespoons cooking oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2-3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1-2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint leaves
Or
1/2-1 teaspoon dried mint
Directions
Separately soak all the beans and lentils overnight.
Soak the rice for several hours.
The next day, boil together the peas and the beans in 10 cups water.
In another pan mix the lentils with 5 cups of water and cook for half an hour.
Drain and discard the liquid from both pans.
In a pan, mix together the lentils and beans with 12 cups water.
Cover and cook over low heat for 2 hours, stirring occasionally.
Add pepper and 1 teaspoon salt and cook for another half hour. Add boiling water, if required.
Mix in the herbs and spinach and cook for another half an hour, stirring occasionally.
Drain the rice and add to the soup and cook for an hour, stirring frequently.
Aash can be blended at this stage.
Heat the flour in a dry pan over low heat.
Cool it and mix it with 1/2 cup water. Add to the aash.
Gradually mix about 1 cup of soup with 1 cup of kashk and pour back to the aash.
Taste and adjust seasoning and pour the Aash into a serving bowls and leave aside.
For the garnish
Heat 2 tablespoons oil and fry the onion until golden brown, drain and leave aside.
Fry the garlic in the remaining oil until golden brown.
Mix in the mint, stir a little and pour over the soup in the serving bowls. Sprinkle with the browned onions and garlic.
Serve immediately with hot naan.
